What do you mean by stator

Forum: mechanics, housing, tools Laminate the stator yourself?





Hello everyone, have you ever laminated your own stator? So the individual plates of electrical steel are lasered and then laminated? I would be particularly interested in where you can buy electrical steel (for building prototypes, i.e. not 1 ton) and how you lasered / milled it? Or if you haven't done something like that yet, but have developed your own electric motor, how did you make it? Thank you, Niine

: Postponed by the moderator

Niine wrote:> Electric steel Often referred to as dynamo sheet in this country. The association named in the imprint will be able to give you sources of supply here ftp://ftp2.stahl-online.de/SIZ/Pdf_Publikationen/MB401_Elektroband-und_b lech.pdf See also: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elektroblech PS : Rolling mills also have laboratories for quality assurance. I have already begged an envelope with certain aluminum foils from someone who produces 80,000t / a.

: Edited by user

Niine wrote:> So the individual plates of electrical steel are lasered and then> laminated? What do you mean by laminated? Dynamo sheets are already painted and can therefore be "stacked" on top of one another according to their shape until the desired stacking height is reached. Niine wrote:> I would be particularly interested in where you can buy electrical steel (for building prototypes, i.e.> not 1 tonne) and how you> lasered / milled it? I don't want to dampen your thirst for action in any way, but neither lasing nor milling is a good manufacturing idea. Lasing is usually associated with such a high T-effect that the paintwork burns partially (in the cut area), which is undesirable. And dynamo sheet is pretty much the most disgusting thing you can come across when milling. Dynamo sheets are usually punched without exception. I don't know what you're up to, but I can only recommend using pre-built components. There are two practicable options: 1) You can easily buy already packaged stators, etc. 2) You go to scrap dealers and get something that suits you. They have entire containers full of e-waste. Price per kg approx. 2 to 3 euros. greetings



LH wrote:> 1) You can (...) buy packaged stators, etc. >> 2) (...) Scrap dealers (...) suitable.> They have whole containers full of electronic scrap.> Price per kg approx. 2 to 3 euros. I would advise something like that too. Go into more detail on what exactly you are up to. Maybe then we will come a lot closer to the matter. A wide variety of users (and thus also projects, knowledge, possibilities) are represented here. With more information, the chances of luck could increase exponentially ... (Believe me, a lot has been tried and / or even (successfully) carried out here, including the "impossible" or something that has never been thought of before. Really "inventive".; -) So say more about it.




Hello everyone, I am just trying to educate myself in the field of electric motors, in the book that I have read everything was described more about design and functionality. There wasn't much about production, I only found out here (worth reading): https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-Your-Own-Miniature-Electric-Hub-Motor/ But the author also always has stators Expanded from old printers, that's okay for individual projects, but if you actually want to sell several of your own motors, it doesn't make sense, so I'm also interested in the manufacture of the motors. Hp M. wrote:> Can name the association mentioned in the imprint Thanks for the tip :) L. H. wrote:> Dynamo sheets are already painted and can therefore be "stacked" on top of one another according to their> shape until the desired stacking height> is reached. Is dynamo sheet the main term in Germany? I've heard many different ones: silicon steel, electrical steel, dynamo steel, electrical steel. What then happens to the plates that are placed on top of one another? Are they glued together with epoxy resin? The rotor can then simply be CNC-milled, right? LH wrote:> I don't want to dampen your thirst for action somehow, but neither lasing,> nor milling is a good manufacturing idea.> Lasing is usually associated with such a high T-action that the> paintwork burns partially (in the cut area), which is undesirable.> And dynamo sheet is pretty much the most disgusting thing that can come across when milling. Oh okay I see. L. H. wrote:> Dynamo sheets are usually punched without exception The dynamo sheet is very thin (0.2mm - 0.35mm I would take). Wouldn't it be possible to punch it yourself with a punching device? So with something like the attachment, only that you mill the stamp yourself. We're talking about stators up to 50mm in diameter, no huge motors ... jup wrote:> (Believe me, a lot has been tried here, including the "impossible"> or never thought of before, and / or even> (successful) Really "inventive". ;-) That's why I like the forum so, outside of my job and career :-) jup wrote:> So tell me more about it. Yes, gladly: It's about developing a hub motor for an electric skateboard. The ones that exist are too big for me, too expensive and do not correspond to the interpretation as I like them. I also think it's a nice project to get used to electric motors. Therefore, I would like to try to develop my own electric motor and understand and carry out all the steps myself. Questions about questions, thanks for your help :-)



Do you have the machines to make a die? Milling, hardening, grinding? You should also have a punching machine. Why? You need 3-8 sheets per cm of stator. 50 sheets can be produced quickly. A hydraulic press takes a lot of time for this. Would be cool, but if you have to buy the machines for it first ...



I work for a company that develops drives for electric and hybrid vehicles. We sometimes have stators made for various experimental setups. As far as I know, the metal sheets for the stator are cut at the company using a water jet. Then the sheets are stacked (are coated on one side with baking varnish), put under tension (mechanically not electrical) and baked at approx. 200 °. The company that does this is called Hans Mayer and is based in Lauf an der Pegnitz. Maybe just ask what a prototype costs, or whether you can purchase the sheets individually. They also make small series of electric motors and it looks in their hall as if you were stuck in the 70s. However, the quality is top.



L. H. wrote:> Lasering is usually associated with such a high T-effect that the> paintwork burns partially (in the cut area), which is undesirable. After a little research, I found some sites that offer laser cutting of dynamo sheets. Isn't the quality enough for prototypes after all? e.g. https://www.emt-net.de/elektrobleche/gelaserte-elektrobleche.html


Turtok wrote:> Is dynamo sheet the main term in Germany? I've heard> many different: ... Yes. This is explained by the the clearly distinguishable to other characteristics: http://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=6kzBIcrf&id=1BFD4343E33EC1EB11FD27601B78C2DE02791451&thid=OIP.6kzBIcrfS1EzRvhy4MU1hwHaGM&q=Dynamoblech+kennlinie&simid=608018756767188754&selectedIndex=2&ajaxhist=0 Within the Dynamo sheets there are then further subgroups depending on the alloys. Turtok wrote:> What happens to the plates that are placed on top of one another? Are they glued together with> epoxy resin? No. Usually the sheets are only packaged. Which is why it is important that the cuts are not only exact, but also that they are free of burrs. Because the painting should also be able to help ensure that eddy current losses can be minimized. Turtok wrote:> The rotor can then simply be CNC-milled, right? That ultimately depends on which magnetizability is to be achieved. Or to put it another way: What possible "smallness" of rotors. Turtok wrote: >> Dynamo sheets are usually punched without exception> The dynamo sheet is very thin (0.2mm - 0.35mm I would use).> Wouldn't it be possible to punch it yourself with a punching device? So> with something like the attachment, only that you mill the stamp yourself.> We are talking about stators up to 50mm diameter, no huge> motors ... Just as an example: http://www.bing.com/images /search?view=detailV2&ccid=bZrPI7kP&id=24F877A42C44FAE6395527BDA5F5690A14886E0F&thid=OIP. These are precision tools! So that you can punch without burrs. You can only pre-mill to a limited extent there. The ideal cutting steel for this is 1.2379 https://www.stauberstahl.com/werkstoffe/12379-werkstoff-datenblatt/ These are also mostly composite tools with many individual cutting punches that are ground after hardening (to approx. 60 to 62 HRC) . Now you can erode that too. If you only look at the cutting line of the rotor in the picture, you can then work out for your project what you need in terms of pressing force for punching. That is mostly underestimated. You can very quickly end up in the double-digit t range. ;) Turtok wrote:> It's about developing a hub motor for an electric skateboard. The ones that exist are too big for me, too expensive and> do not correspond to the interpretation as I like them. I also think it's> a nice project to familiarize myself with electric motors.> Therefore I would like to try to develop my own electric motor> and understand and carry out all the steps myself. It is best to first try to "pick up" suitable items from scrap dealers. Or buy rotor and stator laminations so that you can do what you want to develop. And, if I may advise you, stay away from punching. This is much too expensive with prototypes, and even with small series it is questionable whether it is worth punching yourself. greetings

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